Dog Sledding in Khövsgöl

Check-in at the hotel in Ulaanbaatar. City tour and visit to the main Gandan Monastery. Ulaanbaatar has 7 major monasteries as well as several temples and palaces; the most visited are Gandan and Bogd Khaan (or Winter Palace), construction of which began in 1890.

Ulaanbaatar was built on the banks of the Tuul River, formerly known as Urga, in honor of a Mongol lord's son. The name Ulaanbaatar was given to the Mongolian capital during the 1921 revolution; it means “Red Hero.” The city streets are far quieter in winter than in summer, yet there is always a constant bustle, even late at night. The city is divided into diverse neighborhoods, and you’ll spot yurts right in the city center. Ulaanbaatar’s growth is astonishing, and here you’ll find all the conveniences of modern urban life.
In winter, few visits are possible apart from some monasteries, but a walk through the city’s main market is a truly authentic experience—everything is sold here, from teaspoons to antique bowls.

A visit to the main market is a must—distinctively authentic, Naraantuul Market remains one of the last true reflections of traditional Mongolian life.
Visits according to what’s possible at the time.

A first stage of 470 kilometers to reach Bulgan, a pleasant town of around 12,000 inhabitants and administrative center of the province of the same name. Bulgan was built on the site of an old monastery destroyed during the Soviet purges—the Daichin Wangiin Monastery.
Overnight at the local hotel.

A scenic road will take you to Moron.
You'll travel through a wide variety of landscapes, including the Volcanic Park and, notably, Uran Togo volcano.
You’ll pass through several small villages, including Ikh Uul, which you’ll recognize by the rocky massif at the foot of which the village sits. A sweeping view of the vast Mongolian landscapes awaits, with passes and valleys unfolding one after another until Moron appears in the distance at the end of the valley.
Stop in Moron before continuing on to Lake Khuvsgul.
Around 100 km of dirt road remains to reach Khatgal, a small town at the tip of the lake, a former Russian colony that once prospered thanks to trade between Mongolia and Russia.
Arrival in Khatgal at the end of the day and settle in yurt accommodation at the guesthouse.

Preparation for tomorrow’s departure.

The first day is quite short, just about thirty kilometers as you journey along the long estuary to reach the broader part of the lake. Today will also be your introduction to dog sled driving. We'll make a brief stop at a famed mineral spring just a few kilometers from Khatgal on the eastern shore. Next, we cross the lake to reach Haluun Zaing camp on the lake’s western shore. The camp hosts will welcome us there. Haluun Zaing is a small yurt camp on the tip of a lagoon. In winter, we’ll be the only visitors venturing to this remote place.
The route is never mapped out in advance, because the ice is alive, shifting, often forcing us to zigzag according to the lake’s moods.
Test yourself crossing pressure ridges, seek out the safest spots to pass crevasses, or weave your way forward into the wind…
And those planned thirty kilometers quickly become far longer than expected.

We’ll tackle the widest part of the lake, surrounded by a sense of immensity, even though we stay close to the shoreline.
Today’s stage is a 45 km journey to the legendary Jigleeg. This area is named for the small Jigleeg River, but it’s also the only crossing point to reach Tsaagan Nuur on the far side of the mountain range. We’ll stop at the small lake Khar Uus, adjacent to Khuvsgul Nuur, which is fed by a mineral spring that never freezes in winter and shelters numerous birds—ducks, swans, and more.
A place of rare, wild beauty.
The lake is usually bordered by a blue-tinged ice ridge, formed by the accumulation of ice blocks pushed together by pressure and the relentless movement of the lake’s surface.
It’s not uncommon to spot a horse-drawn sled or a sidecar here and there—unexpected encounters that make this crossing even more interesting.
The horse-drawn sled is unique to Khuvsgul. Elsewhere in the country, horses are shod for the ice, but the terrain and rivers prevent using sleds.
It’s one of Khuvsgul’s unique features.
In March, this stage is among the most unpredictable—violent winds channeled through three or four mountain passes in the Khorido Saridag range can add to the challenge.
These winds also create pressure ridges and crevasses that block access to the small Khar Uus lake.
Sometimes, the elements make Jigleeg unreachable; but your guide knows the lake, the routes, and above all, all the ways to deal with the unexpected.
Nomadic families living along the lakeshore, not far from Khar Uus, always offer shelter for the night—spontaneous evenings with our hosts, often among the journey's highlights.

In Jigleeg, several wooden cabins are set up close to the lake, mainly inhabited in winter; we'll spend the evening in one of them, hosted by Dolgor and Minjee.

Like any mountain pass, Jigleeg is a wind corridor—the entire lakeshore is nearly always swept by wind, and we almost always reach our hosts’ cabin across bare ground.

A long trek due north to the Dolon Uul peninsula, 55 km from Jigleeg.
It’s a long day, crossing many pressure ridges that form here. The Khuvsgul ice is unbelievably pure, trapping white air bubbles within it. The ice often cracks with dull rumbles and waves can still move beneath the thick sheet of ice.
Breathtaking views of the mountain range marking the Russian-Mongolian border.
The route follows the shoreline to Khashim, a favorite picnic spot.
From Khashim, crossing Doloon Uul Bay remains to reach Zeminanii Bulan at the eastern tip of the Doloon Uul peninsula—a straight thirty kilometers ahead. Far from shore, on an almost flat surface... just enough time for a quick nap leaning on the sled.
A stretch of thirty kilometers offering rare tranquility; the dogs find their rhythm and keep going, averaging 13 to 16 km/h depending on the snow.

This northern part of the lake is almost entirely snow-covered through winter, creating a completely different atmosphere at the foot of the tall Khorido Saridag peaks—landscapes of great beauty.
We’ll arrive at Zemianii Bulan in late afternoon. In the days when horse-drawn sleds were the only way to cross the lake in winter, this spot was very popular—well sheltered from prevailing winds and offering summer grazing for horses.
We’ll spend the night in tents on the lakeshore next to a pebbled beach, in a surreal atmosphere…

....The tent:
The word ‘tent’ might put any winter traveler off…
But here, it’s a tent custom-made for us, lined with felt and really well insulated.
Inside, a small stove for easy cooking—and, above all, to ensure you sleep warm through the night.

Traverse the northern and northeastern lake to reach Khankh, formerly called Turt. Here, the lake is about thirty kilometers wide, but the large arc we make to avoid an annual pressure ridge brings the day’s distance to almost 40 km.
Soon the village comes into view, spread at the foot of the cliffs—a distant target that never seems to get any closer.

Picnic in the middle of the lake, then one final straight stretch toward ‘Silver Beach’ camp.
Khankh is a border village, a small port... a sort of end-of-the-world place, a magical spot with a truly unique, timeless atmosphere—where everything seems to move in slow motion.
Towering above the village is the legendary Monkh Saridag, the magnificent mountain revered by the people of Khankh. This beautiful peak rises to almost 3,500m and marks the border with nearby Russia.

A truly Russian welcome awaits at the Silver Beach yurt camp. After these rather rustic days, you'll appreciate the comfort of a heated yurt and proper toilets—not to mention the 'banya' (Russian sauna).

Ice fishing is one of the specialties of Khuvsgul.
At the northern tip of the lake, the Ikh Khoroo River flows in, creating—even in winter—a feeding ground for fish. This is where we'll drill a few holes in the icy crust, discovering the tranquil charm of ice fishing and hoping to land a good catch for grilling during the rest of the trip.
In the evening, preparations for tomorrow’s departure.

We pass beneath the hill where 13 Ovoos stand—remnants of a glorious past, marking the old boundary of the Mongol empire in the time of Chinggis Khan. The great Khan’s empire then consisted of 13 provinces; any foreigner crossing this line knew they were entering the realm of the 13 Aimags.
A long crossing of the bay of… to reach a small cove, not far from the spot known as Sevsuul.

The east shore is highly indented, with a series of bays and coves, sandy beaches, and small cliffs. The whims of the ice will guide our route through pressure ridges and crevasses, until we reach the small Maint cove at the foot of a hill that will shield us from the wind.
Unrivaled views of the Khorido Saridag range.
Overnight in tents.

We’ll then head out into the open, toward the center of the lake, to reach the large island, Dalayn Modon Huys—meaning 'the wooded son of the ocean,' also known as the lake’s navel.
This island is about 3 km across. It’s densely forested and home to deer and roe; it’s not uncommon to spot wolf tracks, as they come here to hunt.
The island is one of the most protected areas of the lake.
The view is stunning, with 3,000m peaks in the distance, separating Lake Khövsgöl from the Darkhad Depression.
We’ll pitch camp on the southern part of the island, not far from a shamanic site, a grave and a few totems that create a treasure-island feel.

At times you can spot the other island, some forty km off in the distance.
It’s not unusual to feel tremors caused by the cracking ice.
Strange sounds echoing from deep within the lake…
Unforgettable moments!

We’ll take a new route toward the eastern shore of the lake, heading to a beautiful cove where the Kheg Tsar River flows in.
A long stage of more than fifty km.
…after about fifteen kilometers, Radan Khuy—the smaller island, the 'stone son'—becomes clearer and soon draws all eyes.
At last you can make out the details of the island, which is really just a rocky reef serving as a nesting place for gulls and cormorants from May onward.
It’s about another ten kilometers to reach Khelengiin Uzuur, on a wooded peninsula. Here, on the lakeshore in this wild landscape, we’ll set up our tents for the night.
The few families living in this area belong to an Urkhianqui sub-ethnic group and the Buryats, but their winter camps are some distance from the coast.

Almost deserted, the east coast is densely forested and marshy—a haven for abundant wildlife.
Arrival at the end of the afternoon.
A good cup of tea to recover from this long day, then it’s on to daily chores: settling the dogs, feeding them, putting away gear, and so on…
By now, we’ll have covered over 250 km on Khuvsgul’s ice. Dog sledding will be second nature, letting you fully appreciate the beauty of these landscapes.

The final stage of the journey across the ice of Khuvsgul…
We’ll follow the lake’s eastern shore a little farther, in this winding stretch dotted with fishing spots…
A picnic break on Radan Suum rock, which marks the end of the lake’s wide section.

A final descent along the estuary brings us at last to the port.
A few boats, trapped by the ice, remain here as relics from a time when trade was booming. Only one of these large vessels still sails in summer.
Arrival in Khatgal by mid-afternoon.
Check-in at the guest house.

We return to Ulaanbaatar via the same route as before, as it’s the only proper road connecting Moron with the capital.
Today, you'll stop at Amarbaysgalant, just past Bulgan.
Amarbayasgalant, whose name means 'Tranquil Felicity,' is one of the three largest Buddhist monastic centers in Mongolia. Built around 1730, the monastery is set near the Selenge River at the foot of Büren Khaan Mountain.
The monastery was built during the reign of the Manchu emperor Kang Xi, known to the Mongols as Enkh-Amgalan Khan, to serve as the final resting place of Zanabazar, who was then the spiritual leader of Buddhism in Mongolia.

Overnight stay at the camp near the monastery.

Early morning visit of the monastery; services usually take place in the morning.
Then head back to the capital.
Arrival in Ulaanbaatar at the end of the day.
Check-in at the hotel and enjoy a final dinner in town with our guide and driver team.